This is a clutch disk of Toyota L engine. It is not noticeable that this has already a defect upon driving but since the engine was overhauled and is obviously thin it should be replaced to minimize time and work.
1. Components of the Clutch Disk
- the hub
- the cover plate
- the rivet
- the friction surface
- the spring
2.Functions of the Clutch Disk
The clutch disk transmits power from the engine to the transmission through the hub wherein the gearbox shaft is inserted.
The producer company may have made a mistake in packaging the materials for Toyota L series which may have identical gaskets but not exactly the same, or its really the one but they made a mistake in the measurement and so produced a not fitted one.
I am referring to the head cover gasket referred to as valve gasket for Toyota L upon knowing that the mechanic had a difficulty in placing the gasket during the assembly of the engine. Because it is in the package so he believes it must be the right one that fits.
Until after a week of test drive that I noticed when we opened it for timing adjustment and to check the valve gaps. It was really stretched and it shows that it is not a normal fitting.
Because the alignment of the gasket is somewhat tilted I have to find for something that is better. Because there was no available head cover gasket for Toyota L I bought the one for Toyota 2L head cover gasket and it fits. The video below will prove the anomaly about the case.
The video above shows the fact that not all in the package of Toyota L overhauling gasket are fitted. Even if you reverse the placement it’s really too far to fit.
This video shows the exact gasket that is bought from Toyota 2L head cover gasket.
I wonder why the company causes confusion to Toyota L series users and customers by having different series with the same parts. The engine is Toyota L and you have to look for Toyota L parts and accessories. It is not bad if you can find parts exactly the same in Toyota 2L but when you are given a package with any of the parts unfit that makes it considerably defective and the producer company has to replace it for free.
Reminder and Warning
Be sure to inspect all overhauling gasket package before you use it one by one. The only way to assure that you have all the gaskets fit is to take with you to the auto supply center all the samples to be replaced.
This is to avoid extra ordinary expenses in buying another part you needed just because some of what is in the package is unfit.
It is also saving time and effort in doing repairs to your car or vehicle.
It’s enlightening to know how to do it if you have enough guide to follow. It will not waste your time and you can avoid mistakes and control or lessen expenses.
In the engine valves installation, there are hints that let you realize that every valve is not to be inserted in any valve guide.
On the Toyota L engine, valves are arranged from 0 to 3 marks. It is found on the flat surface of the valves. If you cannot find it there examine the whole valve to be sure that nothing will be interchanged rather they are in the proper places.
The arrangement should start from cylinder one which is the nearest to the front of the engine. If that is the case cylinder one receives exhaust and intake valves with no marks and the other cylinders receive the valves with their own marks from 1 to 3 respectively.
How to Change Engine Oil
The standard for most of the cars is to change oil every 5,000 kilometers or three months, whichever comes first or as often as possible depending on your driving habits and the road conditions.
Have it drained only just after a hard drive, at least 15 kilometers. When the oil is hot and thin, sludge will not settle and harden at the bottom of the oil pan. Or if you leave the car at a service station for a change later in the day, the cold sludge won’t flow out.
For a more detailed reading, please proceed here.
The piston, piston rings, oil rings, and connecting rods are parts that should be installed and connected to each other before it will be inserted into the block.
In installing or assembling these parts be sure to wet it with oil. The purpose is that on the first crank of the engine the engine oil is not yet distributed to the engine parts. At least before the oil reaches all the moving parts there is lubrication provided so it will not immediately get hot.
Here are the parts:
The piston rings and oil ring
The piston pins
The connecting rod
Tools to use in assembling the parts
There is only two that you needed. It is the snap ring pliers that you use in placing the rings and the piston ring installer pliers.
Watch the video on how all the parts are placed.
It is such important to be careful enough in placing all the parts. Remember the piston has marks and that is according to arrangements when inserted in the cylinders. Observe the dots on the images below.
Piston 1 with no mark
Piston 2 with one dot
Piston 3 with two dots
Piston 4 with 3 dots
Not only the piston has marks, but the connecting rod also has. If you are keen on observing the marks such as dots you will never be mistaken to pair the right piston with the right connecting rod. And of course, you will not also be mistaken in the insertion of right pistons on the right cylinders of the block.
Cylinder 1 must be the nearest in the front of the engine. It is the nearest to the camshaft timing gear and cylinder 4 must be the nearest to the transmission.
With that hints to bear in mind, you won’t waste time disassembling the engine when you come to your senses that you have not been conscious enough to observe marks provided by the manufacturers as the guide in assembling after doing an overhaul.
If you have followed the guide you will save time and possibly save resources to be incurred through errors.
You can find additional helpful information on this website page.
Thank you again and I hope I have helped you in some way. If you have any question, comments, and observations please feel free to leave it in the comment box and I’ll be willing to get back and answer you as soon as I read your message.
This fuel shutoff valve is a part of the injection pump that functions as the shutoff of fuel and engine. It is operated by a current from the battery through the ignition switch.
When the ignition switch is on and current goes to this shutter it opens and fuel will flow to the injection pump that supplies the nozzles spraying fuel to the combustion chambers. When the ignition switch is off this valve will close and no fuel will flow to the injection pump.
How do you know this?
I would like to share with you our experience in the Toyota L engine. We have just overhauled it, the radiator was overhauled too, and the injection pump calibrated. Everything should have been fine as expected. The engine was cranked and it started smoothly, the engine noise is just right, the thick white smoke is gone and is about to be on a road test.
But as the engine is warmed up it suddenly stalled, no matter how you crank it in order to start it didn’t. Because it’s newly overhauled maybe the fuel has not yet fully saturated the injection pump and air maybe inside. The remedy is to loosen the nozzles so that air may be blown out.
This process if the air had been totally out from the injection pump fuel should follow to come out of the nozzles. If there are no bubbles coming out it’s time to tighten it. Loosening the nozzles to test if there is fuel in it should be done one after the other.
However, this time there was no air coming out and there was no fuel too. So how would the engine start if there is no fuel supplied by the nozzles? It will not. It’s good the fuel hose is transparent and obviously, the fuel is still sufficiently available from the tank.
The next step is to check if there is a current going to the fuel shutoff valve. So we checked it and there was no current. Upon examination, it was the wiring connected to the shutoff valve that has been cut off inside, however, it was not obvious until we stretched it out and it was only connected temporarily through the insulation of the wiring.
When the connection was restored the engine was cranked and it started until it was tested on the road and until this time of writing the engine did not stall.
Too weak, and overheating after it has been overhauled. It ‘s unbelievable. When your engine is pretty working when it was not yet overhauled you will wonder why and you may blame the mechanic for such condition. It should work efficiently because it was newly overhauled.
This newly overhauled Toyota L Engine displayed a weak power when it was road tested. Whatever you do with the timing either you advance it or retard it, it does not make any change in the power. The engine nearly cannot pull its body on an elevated road.
The technician believes everything is in its proper place and the issue has nothing to do with the overhauling. He rather recommended that the injection pump is calibrated.
What is Calibration?
Calibration includes replacement of O-rings, oil seals, cleaning and testing with a machine if the injection pump functions accurately or not.
This is an additional expense for it is not easy when you don’t have the budget. The cost is two thousand seven hundred pesos (P2,700.00).
The injection pump was brought to the Calibration Center, disassembled and cleaned.
And then assembled and put to the test machine. Now, we don’t know what would have been the defect of the injection pump since it was disassembled without the test first. If it would have been tested before it was disassembled maybe we have known if it is clogged or any of the adjusting screws have been meddled in by a mechanic in the previous years.
The purpose of the calibration now is all specks of dirt which have been sucked from the fuel are to be removed and to return the function of all parts in the normal way.
All tests have been done and the injection pump was hopefully in good condition. Back to the engine and the pump was attached. After everything had been placed, the engine was started.
Noticeably, the engine is now quieter, less smoke and the engine’s power was restored. It was a grueling task but it’s worthy to have been done. No issue on the overhauling but it’s outside the engine, it’s the fuel injection pump.
It was a shocking experience about overheating engine when it was not really overheating before it was overhauled. It was a sudden additional situation which we addressed after trying to solve the issue of weak power. The story is this:
We overhauled the engine because it came to a stage that it emits thick white smoke and it does not have the power. Other than that is because oil and water are mixing in the radiator. But in addressing that issue another problem came up when we test drive, it was overheating reaching 180 degrees Fahrenheit (°F). That is already near to the boiling point of water which is 212. That 180 degrees Fahrenheit (°F) should be the temperature when fully loaded and you climb uphills and the temperature of the day is really hot.
When the temperature reaches that point all moving parts inside the engine starting from the piston will stop to move because they are stuck due to the heat. Meaning, the oil and the water or coolant are no longer capable of providing the proper lubrication for the engine to work smoothly.
The Radiator Overhaul
In our, analysis there would be no other source of the overheating problem other than the cooling system. The oil is working properly as seen in the oil gauge so it must be the radiator.
I had to bring this to the shop for overhauling.
The usual overhauling of a radiator is detaching the top cover to clean the core tubes by rubbing the core tubes with a thin deep stick. However, if there is clogging that cannot be pricked they will just leave that clogged.
So what we did is to remove both the top and bottom covers. Here is the picture below.
So we found out that there were several core tubes clogged. Aside from that, there was a perforation where the water leaks. We did the cleaning and fixing. But as you see after it has been assembled there are perforations on some of the core tubes so it has to be soldered.
The overhauling has been over the usual fixing that is only the top cover. This time both the top and the bottom covers were removed and the clogged core tubes were cleaned thoroughly which is much better than the prior condition.
We test drive it and the issue of overheating has already been solved. Thanks for a job well done by the repairman for both the engine and the radiator.
See you again on the next posts. If you have any questions, suggestions or opinions that you think it can be incorporated here just use the comment box and we will consider all of them. We will get back to you as soon as we read your messages.
Remember, the engine feels your love.