The reason for this accident is one simple thing, a nap struck driver. It is an utmost reminder that you don’t drive in long-distance journey if you lack sleep. The following images will show how a driver is unfit during that time.
The car was from the other lane crossing the other lane and eventually rammed on the electric post.
The only good thing here was no other vehicle from the other lane that exactly passed at the same time. If not, a more serious situation would have been inevitable.
The lesson, if you know you are driving the next day prepare and condition yourself. Have enough sleep and no illnesses at hand. Although accidents are sometimes believed to be unavoidable, at least we can minimize it with careful thinking and with careful movements.
Dan Simmons said; “Accidents are like death. Waiting for us everywhere. Inevitable. Unavoidable. Plan as we might, they defy our planning.”
On the other side, I firmly believe not all accidents are inevitable and unavoidable. We can avoid. Just remember, life is precious and others need you.
I welcome you here at mydreamwheels.com. This My Dream Wheels Toyota L Engine Guide does not recommend any car model by which I mean the “dream wheels” but it suggests a car that is fully maintained and delivers efficient services that you need. A car that is ready all the time because it is in good running condition all the time.
Most of us need a car not for luxury but for necessity. And if having a car adds to the delay of what you do, what’s the use of it? Having your own car must facilitate the effectiveness and efficiency of your services to where you work, you are employed, to your family, and to other people who need your help.
This place is where the newbie mechanic is, where you can learn or teach depending on the engagement you are in. If you are an expert you may teach and if you are a newbie mechanic you may or we both learn here. What you will find here are results of experiences and research. What we do here is a do it yourself till the end.
At this point, we shall start our class on the Toyota L engine. This is not a modern model, in fact, this is the oldest of the Toyota L series. But many love it because of its durability, fuel economy, and the availability of spare parts around. We will use this as our specimen to develop our discussion and lay the principle that could be applicable to other engine models.
The Toyota L Engine Maintenance
When it comes to maintenance, these are the things that should be at their proper levels or measurement to provide the engine for continued and effective performance when you are on the drive. So let’s talk about engine oil and cooling system.
I. Facts about Motor Oil
At any speed, oil in a small car works twice as hard as in a big car.
Smaller cars with their 4-cylinder engines circulate their oil twice as fast as in the big sixes and eights. They run at 25 to 30 percent higher revolutions throughout their entire performance range. So there is more friction and heat in the small car engine. The heat in a small engine can drain the life out of an oil which can keep it from cleaning and lubricating properly.
It can also cause sludge and other kinds of deposits to form and clog passageways in the engine. From there it’s only a short step to pre-ignition, power loss, and premature wear. Small, as well as big cars, need proper maintenance and care. Although small cars are easy on gas, easy to handle, and have smaller engines, they’re not easy on oil.
Changing Oil
The standard for most of the cars is to change oil every 5,000 kilometers or three months, whichever comes first or as often as possible depending on your driving habits and the road conditions.
Have it drained only just after a hard drive, at least 15 kilometers. When the oil is hot and thin, sludge will not settle and harden at the bottom of the oil pan. Or if you leave the car at a service station for a change later in the day, the cold sludge won’t flow out.
Filling with New Oil
Supplemental additives are not essential and are an unnecessary expense. A good oil brand already has special additives in it.
If you want your engine to run well, do not add things to your crankcase. Put in good quality motor oil and change it only according to the manufacturer’s recommendation. Use only brand name oil and those that are marked and conforming to SAE specifications.
You should also know that “SE” designation for motor oil which meets the requirement for high-temperature engine performance is recognized by automotive and petroleum industries.
An oil with low viscosity grade (like SAE 10 W) will flow freely to help a cold engine start, especially during cold weather.
An oil with high viscosity grade (like SAE 40) is thick enough to protect a hot engine, especially during summer.
Fill up to the full line on the level gauge. If low, add oil up to the F line. Never overfill the crankcase. Too high on oil level lets he crankshaft splash through the oil causing excessive foaming and may lead to excessive oil pressure.
To prevent overfilling, the engine should be shut off for about two minutes before removing the dipstick. This allows oil in the lines and engine passages to drain back into the crankcase. Note: when checking the level of engine oil, make sure the car is standing on level ground.
If oil is leaking out around the drain plug car’s oil pan, check if the plug is tight. If it is tight do not apply a lot of muscle to make it super tight. Over tightening the plug will ruin thread since it has a fine thread. Chances are the plug gasket has deteriorated and needs replacing.
Changing oil is not just a practice that car owners love to do. It is a significant thing in the life and service of the car engine. An efficient car engine oil maintenance means efficient delivery of services to people by the person who owns it.
The Problem of Oil Leak
Before we leave this discussion I would like to remind everyone an issue that anyone might raise. Someone might say, why is the engine oil dissipates early before the scheduled oil change? I keep on adding a half liter or nearly a liter every 500 hundred kilometers or every long drive yet I do not see any drip on the floor when in the garage.
The question is, how did you know it? Is it through the oil pressure gauge or through the dipstick?
(Pressure gauge)
(Dipstick)
Often times the oil pressure gauge doesn’t tell the truth, especially to old cars maybe because of electrical or hardware problems.
But it is wise for the driver to always double check it through the dipstick as I usually do. Now, this is what I discovered lately. I did not see any drop of oil on the park area but when I checked on the dipstick the oil has dissipated. In fact, I had twice added oil to fill it to the measure because oil change is yet to come.
One time when I was checking something my eyes were set on the stabilizer. It was a little bit wet with oil and I thought it was just an accidental splatter. But that led me to think I have to see where it come from.
I have to remove the cover as you see in the image below so I can check where the leak is coming from.
After removing the cover I have to determine what part is leaking. I have prepared a video for you to see what I did. Here it is:
Fixing the oil leak
Sometimes it’s deceiving what part is leaking but don’t be in a hurry to do things. You have to be patient in locating the source of the problem. From the wet wheel stabilizer that led you to open your engine’s front cover shown below (whatever be the model). Trace where the oil come and don’t be fooled by what you see at the lowest part that may have been just a deposit of a long leak.
Start determining traces of oil leaks from the top suspected possible parts that could easily be perforated through high heat like cylinder head cover gasket, camshaft oil seal, cylinder head gasket, front main oil seal, crankshaft oil seal, and oil pan gasket.
Areas of oil engine leakage are as follows:
Front cover oil seal
Timing chain cover gasket
Oil pan gasket 1Oil pan gasket 2
Crankshaft oil seal
Camshaft oil seal
Now, this is a warning to everyone car owner, a driver, or any one who uses a car. Be a keen observant with regards to oil dissipation in the engine.
If there are leaks you can see through either of the oil seals identified that is a lot easier and fewer expenses by just replacing those parts.
However, if there are no leaks anywhere outside your engine but oil dissipates before the next oil change schedule, that is a more serious issue. Leaks are no longer outside the engine but it’s inside it. Why? Your valve seals or the valve seats may now need replacement. If not the valve seals it maybe the piston rings so you need to inspect the emission smoke of your car. A related article (please see the article on bluish smoke) will show you why I said this for your guide.
II. Cooling System
Have you been keen on checking your radiator tank for sufficient water? Mind it just this part of your car contributes an important role in the life of your engine.
Ignoring the proper maintenance of this system will bring you to a more costly and laborious situation. Find the guide in the following concerns.
a. How the Cooling system Works
The combustion inside the cylinders of your car produces temperatures high enough to melt the cylinder block in 20 minutes. A third of this heat is converted into mechanical energy to drive the car. Half of the waste heat goes out of the tailpipe.
But the remaining half has to be handled by the cooling system. The cooling system gets rid of engine heat by circulating a coolant through passages in the engine block. The heated water is then circulated through the radiator where it gives off heat.
As a rule, there is only a few degree difference between “too cold and too hot” when these terms are applied to engines. Extreme means either greatly accelerated wear or possible failure of wear parts within a very short time. Also, there are side effects such as increased fuel consumption and increased the formation of the sludge, gums, and corrosive acids that damage parts.
Remember however that the main purpose of the system, whether the indirect (water cooled) or the direct (air cooled), is to remove excessive heat and maintain the proper working temperature of the engine.
b. Pressure Caps
Obviously, a cooling system designed to operate under a specific pressure will not perform properly unless that specific pressure is maintained. For this reason, never install a pressure cap of a higher or lower rating than that allowed for when the system was designed.
Replace a pressure cap with one rated the same as the original one. A cap with a lower pressure rating may cause coolant to boil, causing a build up of excessive pressure which may rupture a weak spot, possibly a blown hose or even a gasket.
In a conventional cap, two gaskets are used: one at the end of the spring-loaded pressure valve and another around the perimeter of the cap to keep air out of the system. Both gaskets are made of synthetic rubber and can be replaced only by changing the whole cap.
If your engine is operating at normal temperature, avoid removing the radiator cap as a part of routine servicing. It’s not necessary. Removing the cap will change the cooling system pressure and lower the coolant boiling point. Remove the cap only when the engine is obviously overheating, or when the cooling system needs servicing.
Coolant Overflow Tank
A plastic overflow tank often has markings that indicate the required water level. In general, the open end of the return hose at the radiator must be submerged in a coolant at all times. Check with the engine running at the idle speed. If it is necessary to add water, remove the cap from the overflow tank only. lack of sufficient coolant in the overflow tank can lead to malfunction of the cooling system.
c. Cooling System Leak Test
Leaks can create aeration damage. Any leak in the system can damage the water pump. If the leak allows air to get in, the air suction will cause the coolant to fill up with bubbles. These bubbles strike against the pump blades strongly enough to cause damage. To check if there is air in the system, here is a simple test you can do:
Warm up the engine.
Tighten all hose connections.
Fill up the radiator to specified coolant level.
Exchange the pressure cap on the radiator with a non-pressure type (a pressure cap without spring).
Attach a hose to the bottom of the radiator overflow pipe.
Put the other end of the hose into a jar of water.
Finally, run the engine at a brisk idle while in neutral.
You will see a steady stream of bubbles in the water jar if aeration is taking place in the cooling system.
d. Checking Radiator Hose
In most cars, a two wire screw type radiator hose clamp or a strap-and-screw type instead of the usual spring clamp and the strap screw type should be tightened periodically.
Upper radiator hose should be neither brittle nor spongy. To check, pinch or squeeze the hose with the fingers. The hose should return to its original shape the moment pressure is released. Many cooling system failures are due to a swollen or cracked hose and loose connections.
The lower radiator hose may be checked by accelerating the engine. This trouble may not show at idle engine speed. A deteriorating hose may drop bits of rubber into the system and this can plug passages. Replace a defective hose as soon as possible.
e. Coolant Quality Check
Rust or scale in the coolant can wear away the pump shaft or pump blades or block inlet or outlet passages. There should be no excessive deposits of rust or scales around the radiator cap or radiator filter hole. Coolant should also be free from oil and other liquids that may cause contamination. If the coolant is excessively dirty, the best solution is to flush the system to get rid of rust and scale.
To do a quick and easy check to determine if the pump is working:
First, warm-up the engine at idle speed.
Second, squeeze the upper hose midway between two connections.
Third, let somebody accelerate the engine while you are squeezing the hose. If you feel a surge on the hose when the engine is accelerated, the pump is at least working although this test doesn’t show how well.
f. How to Flush the Cooling system
Remove the radiator cap and open the petcock at the bottom of the radiator. When coolant has drained off, tighten the petcock. Fill the radiator with plain water.
start the engine. While the engine is idling, open again the petcock and insert a garden hose into the radiator filler neck. Wait about 5 minutes then remove the hose and tighten the petcock.
The Exhaust System
Exhaust System
Are you concerned about your exhaust system? It may not be obviously having some problems but it is better to always check for immediate repair if ever there are, even if it is minor. Here are some hints for you to follow in the maintenance of your exhaust system.Critical Checkpoints of the Exhaust System Exhaust systems that are still good and are not being replaced should be visually checked. Starting at the front of the car, make your way to the rear.
1. Manifold to Exhaust pipe joint: Gasket sealer ring may be made of cast iron, powdered metal or asbestos compound packing.
Check for defective gasket sealing, cracks, misalignment, and loose bolts.
2. Bends
Look for pin size holes, excessive rust, cracks, and deterioration.
3. Brackets:
To find faulty brackets, gently force the muffler up and down to see which one is damaged or broken. When you work on brackets, you will probably find that nuts are easier to remove by using a set of deep six point sockets instead of 1/2 or 9 inches open, box wrench combinations. If you work on Japanese of European cars (eg. Toyota, Datsun, Colt, Volks, etc.) metric size tools are probably needed.
Check for faulty brackets
4. Clamp: (If there is any). Tighten loose clamps
5. Muffler:
Check for breaks around the perimeter of the endplates, pinholes, and defective muffler baffles.
Exhaust noises caused by pressure waves in the gasses are regular and normal. Mufflers usually deteriorate from inside out, so damage may not be visible. If the muffler begins to rattle and produces excessive noise, the cause is usually a mechanical failure. Most common defects are loose or damaged baffles or clogged flow tubes. Also, pay attention to both end plates of the muffler. Tap the muffler with your hand or lightly with a metal tool. Listen for suspicious sounds made by falling flakes of rust and for rattles from loose tubes or baffles. a muffler that has deteriorated inside often emits a dull sounding noise rather than a metallic ring when tapped with a metal tool. If you suspect an exhaust system leak, locate it by means of smoke signals. Pour kerosene or light oil (or carburetor cleaner, if you have any) into the carburetor while the engine is idling fast. The smoke produced will seep through and reveal even the tiniest pinhole which will be easily visible on the car. Sometimes exhaust leaks may be detected by a hissing sound. Smoking Car A simple cause of a smoking car is a loose crankcase bolt.
If your car smokes like this, and afterward you find that it is coming from the oil filter cap, tighten those oil pan screws. They need tightening to maintain crankcase vacuum. Other causes may be defective pump gaskets, front cover gaskets, intake manifold end seal, and crankshaft seal. But this is unlikely.
Starting Problems of Cars
Engine starting problem can happen at any time. It is advisable for anyone especially car owners to be equipped with knowledge in solving problems that occur when no available mechanic is around.
Toyota L Engine
When your cold engine does not start what could be the possible causes and what are the possible solutions you are going to do?
Check the following that could be causing the problem:
No gas in the tank.
Obviously, you would say my car has a working fuel gauge why do I doubt that there is a gas in the tank. This is only if your car is a little bit old and electrical connections to show you that are already non-functional.
2. Loose or corroded battery terminals and/ or starter. Weak sparks.
3. Worn or dirty contact points.
This is only for four stroke engines that need contact points. Compression ignition Diesel engines ignite the fuel-air mixture by the heat of compression and do not need a spark. They usually have glow plugs that preheat the combustion chamber to allow starting in cold weather.
4. Incorrect contact point gaps (for four stroke engine)
5. No fuel in the carburetor (for four stroke engine)
6. Dirt in the fuel line or carb (four stroke engine)
7. Over-chocking or flooding (four stroke engine)
8. Weak battery.
9. Defective condenser.
10. Burnt ballast resistor.
11. Defective ignition switch.
12. Defective solenoid or starter motor.
Here are the things you can do to solve the problem.
Check if there is gas in the tank.
Clean and tighten battery terminals. Corroded dirty connections create high resistance that limits the available current. Apply some grease to the connections to prevent the build-up of new corrosion. If the engine does not start, do step 3.
Remove one spark plug wire from the spark plug. Hold it approximately 1/4 inch away from the unpainted part of the engine while cranking the engine. If there is only a weak spark, do step 4 and 5. If there is a strong spark, do step 6.
Inspect for worn, dirty or oiled contact points. The best way is to remove contact point assembly. It is difficult in most cases to get a good look at the points while they are still in the distributor. Before removing anything, study the arrangement of screws and washers.
Refer to your car owner’s manual for the correct contact point gaps.
Remove the whole air cleaner cover. Operate the accelerator linkage several times while watching inside the carburetor bore. Fuel must be seen coming out (squirting) inside the carburetor bore. If you cannot see any fuel coming out, there may be dirt in the fuel line or carburetor. Do step 7. If you see fuel coming out but still the engine does not start, do step 8.
Disconnect the fuel line from the carburetor side, and let someone crank the engine, for a few seconds. If fuel comes out, put the line back in place then try to start the engine. If it does not start, operate the accelerator linkage again then watch for the fuel coming out inside carburetor bore as in step 6. If still no fuel squirts out carburetor need cleaning or tune-up. Also, remove the fuel line and blow out the dirt with a compressed air sprayer if this is available. If you see fuel coming out but still the engine does not start, do step 8.
Do not pump the accelerator pedal while starting the engine. Push the choke in. Next, push the accelerator pedal slowly to the floor and keep it steady there. The first revolution will clear away the excess gasoline until the mixture is correct to start the engine. If it does not start maybe you have a weak battery. Do step 9.
Try push starting. But if no one can help you push, do the next solution. Remove the spark plug and clean electrodes. Lower their voltage requirement by decreasing the gap. If the engine still does not start, remove one or two spark plugs from every other cylinder in the firing order and place cables where they will not be grounded or throw sparks.
Example:
Firing order is 1-3-4-2, remove number 1 and 3 or 4 and 2. This will reduce mechanical resistance to speed up cranking. If the engine fails to start, do the next solution. If the engine starts, make a steady RPM and let the battery be charged for a few minutes then put back spark plugs as fast as you can. At the same time do not let the cable touch the plug while you’re replacing it. Be sure the charging system works. Get help from other motorists by hooking up booster cables from their car battery. If the engine still does not start, do step 10.
10. Change the condenser with one that has the same rating for your car. Before removing anything, study the arrangement of screws, washers and electrical wires. They all have to go back the same way.
11. Remove or bypass the ballast resistor by connecting a jumper wire (in other words, short out the resistor terminals).
12. Turn ignition on to see if wipers and signal lights operate. If not, check for disconnected ignition switch or burned link. If all are working replace the ignition switch.
13. Consult a competent mechanic to do the job.
When your engine is hard starting the following could be the possible causes:
Bad ignition cables.
Burned or cracked distributor cap or rotor.
Loose primary wirings.
Worn or dirty contact point gaps.
Incorrect contact point gaps.
Defective condenser.
Improper ignition timing.
Worn spark plug gaps.
Incorrect spark plug gaps.
Burned ballast resistor.
Weak coil.
Possible solutions that you can do:
Inspect for dirt, or cracked ignition cables.
Inspect for burned or cracked distributor cap and rotor.
Tighten all wiring connections.
Inspect for worn, dirty, oiled contact points.
refer to your car owner’s manual for the correct contact point gaps.
Change the condenser with one that has the same rating for your car. Before removing anything, study the arrangement of screws, washers and electrical wires. It has to go back the same way.
Adjust ignition timing.
Clean or replace spark plugs.
Adjust spark plug gaps and refer to your car owner’s manual for the correct gap.
Remove or bypass the ballast resistor by connecting a jumper wire. (in other words, short out the resistor terminals).
Test the ignition coil resistance with a multimeter (refer to your manual for the required resistance).
When your engine starts and dies what could be the possible causes?
Idle speed set too low.
Idle mixture incorrect.
Flooding.
Insufficient fuel in the carburetor.
Dirt in the fuel line or carb.
Carburetor base or manifold gasket leaks.
Wrong polarity in the coil.
Here are ways you can solve the problem
1. Adjust the idle speed (refer to your manual for proper adjustment).
2. Adjust idle mixture (see manual for proper adjustment)
3. Correct carburetor needle and float (see manual).
Hint:
Carburetor flooding produces a strong gas odor under the hood. So if you smell gas, you probably can eliminate that possibility.
4. Adjust float level.
5. Do step 7 on “Engine does not start”.
6. Tighten carburetor bolts and manifold bolts.
7. Test coil polarity.
Why Engine Starts and Dies?
When your engine starts and dies it could be caused by the 7 issues below. The following steps are tested and are principles applicable more on older cars but also could be in new ones.
Idle speed set too low.
Idle mixture incorrect.
Flooding.
Insufficient fuel in the carburetor.
Dirt in the fuel line or carb.
Carburetor base or manifold gasket leaks.
Wrong polarity in the coil.
Here are ways you can solve the problem
1. Adjust the idle speed (refer to your manual for proper adjustment).
2. Adjust idle mixture (see manual for proper adjustment)
3. Correct carburetor needle and float (see manual).
Hint:
Carburetor flooding produces a strong gas odor under the hood. So if you smell gas, you probably can eliminate that possibility.
4. Adjust float level.
5. Do step 7 on “Engine does not start”.
6. Tighten carburetor bolts and manifold bolts.
7. Test coil polarity.
Why Engine Stalls on Flooded Road?
When engine stalls on the flooded road you can check the following causes and be able to fix your car and go with your journey.
Possible cause:
Grounded, wet, or soaked:
spark plug
Grounded spark plug
distributor
ignition coil
What to do:
It’s simple and easy to solve the problem delaying you in your travel. Simply wipe off spark plugs, distributor (inside) and coil.
The Engine Ping
Engine ping is a sound you hear inside the engine that seems to be unusual. It is a detonation sound or a loud knock.
Fill with proper fuel grade (regular or premium and do not mix)
Check engine oil and fill it to the proper level.
Adjust valve clearance to the prescription of the manufacturer.
In the case of number 2 problem, improper fuel grade can be an accidental incident. Experiences tell that some fuel refilling stations accidentally filled some vehicles with the improper fuel like filling diesel engine with a gas.
The immediate solution to this is, the tank has to be emptied and the carburetor or the injection pump must be dried from the improper fuel.
In ending our discussion of the My Dream Wheels Toyota L Engine Guide, I hope it somehow helped you see things in different perspective. Roopleen said, learning is a matter of gathering knowledge, wisdom is applying that knowledge.
Thank you for reading this article and may you have enjoyed it. Please do visit us again for another discussion. If you have any question please send your message at jjimmydolo@gmail.com and I’ll be willing to get back to you as soon as I read. You can also help me popularize this knowledge if you share it on
Do like us, on Facebook and you can also help me popularize this knowledge if you share it to others.
Engine stalls when hot or during long trips, possible causes and solutions.
Why engine stalls when hot or during long trips?
One of the common problems along the way is engine stalls when hot or during long trips. Check for the following possible causes.
Vapor lock
Sticking choke butterfly plate.
Defective fuel pump.
Carburetor flooding.
Worn out contact points
For you to fix if ever you suspect one of the above causes follow this simple procedure:
Wait until the engine cools off. Pour cold water over the fuel pump and fuel lines. To get rid of the problem permanently, insulate the fuel lines with an electrical tape. Or change your fan with one that has more blades.
Clean the area around the choke and the linkages with gasoline or kerosene. Then lubricate the pivot points. Or if your car has a manual choke, check the spring for proper tension.
Disconnect the fuel line at the carburetor side and let someone crank the engine for a moment. If no fuel comes out, remove the fuel line and flow out the dirt. If fuel comes out, reconnect the line then try starting. If it won’t start, operate acceleration linkage and watch for fuel squirting out inside the carburetor bore. If no fuel squirts out, carburetor needs cleaning or tune-up. There is a commercially available spray cleaner at gas stations or car accessories store. (eg. STP or WYNNS)
Adjust carburetor float height. Note; Carburetor flooding produces a strong gas odor under the hood. So if you don’t smell gas you probably can eliminate that possibility.
Get a fine cut sandpaper and pass it between the contact points then blow out the dirt. If this time the engine performs poorly, get to the nearest auto supply and buy new contact points.
Additional Story of a Diesel Engine (Toyota L)
Considering none of the above is the cause of stalling there is one that made me so disappointed after I have just gone to the electrician for electrical repairs and check up. And the engine is in its break-in period due to overhaul.
For thrice I have been stalling in the midst and at the crossroads and it was a shameful situation thinking that I am causing the traffic. Because the engine cannot be cranked we have to push it and after doing so the engine finds its way to start over again. There was a time that along the way I have to call for a mechanic to see what was faulty. But as it was a joke the engine started and we got home but after several days it sometimes starts and sometimes it doesn’t.
At this point in time, I called my friend mechanic to once and for all diagnose the issue causing the inconveniences along the way.
We started the engine and as he inspects the engine in every angle he happened to bump on the electrical circuit and the engine stopped.
Now we have discovered that the sockets are too loose and when the car is running and the current line is detached it stalls because no current to burn the fuel.
I have to buy a new one and changed this old breaker.
Now my car is running smoothly and does not stall along the way.
==============
Thank you for reading the blog and if you have any question please send it to jjimmydolo@gmail.com and I will be willing to get back to you after I have read it.
In November 2011 we passed by a bus and a truck that collided resulting into severe damage on both.
Bus and Truck Collision
Having traversed the municipalities of Paete, Kalayaan, Lumban, Pagsanjan, Sta. Cruz, Victoria, and Calawan and reaching to the town of Los Banos, Laguna we passed by this accident that had happened around more than an hour before we arrived.
There were no indications of fatalities but a severe damage on both vehicles are obvious.
In this kind of incident, it conveys a purported recklessness on either of the two drivers. If they have taken soberness in driving they would have been spared from this unfavorable situation.
In August 2011 we were going home from an after activity with the group of young people. Up the winding road between Pagsanjan to Luisiana, Philippines we witness from our own eyes this incident.
We were following this tricycle and upon the curve, the driver pressed on the accelerator to put a push on his ride when the force made the imbalance and continuously derailed from the road. Fortunately, there was a barrier that stopped them from falling to the ravines. There was a woman on board.
Tricycle
We stopped to lend a help but there were enough people to pull the tricycle from the road side.
Witnessing what had happened reminds me that an accident can really happen anytime in any place. The good thing here was no vehicles in the opposite lane. If there was surely it hit the smaller ride and would have brought a fatal head-on clash.
Derailed because of imbalance and not the fault of the driver but it’s a gravitational result.
Try checking the oil cooler to ascertain that it has no defects before doing anything else on the engine. This will prevent unnecessary repairs on parts that should not be given attention to.
This incident happened in a motorcycle accident along the Caliraya road sometime in 2011. There were three of them and this was among the severely injured.
Can we get rid of this kind of happening? Yes, if we cannot prevent it we can control the severity of the injury.
The reason why this injury is severe was that there were no helmets worn.
(Pressure gauge)
Front cover oil seal
Timing chain cover gasket
Tighten loose clamps
