6

Overheating Engine-Freewheeling Radiator Fan

Have you seen a freewheeling radiator fan?

Radiator fan or cooling fan is a part of the cooling system of an engine. It is attached to the front of the engine facing the radiator to cool it whenever the engine starts and the car is used on a trip or a journey.

The radiator fan blade is not fixed like other fans such as electric fans. It’s neither like the processor fan of a computer that is too loose. The story below tells you more about this for you to understand in case you still don’t, why a radiator fan is designed in such a way that it can turn left and right but not too loose.

It was far from my own belief that this situation has been the long-lurking issue of engine overheating since the engine was overhauled.

Nobody of us noticed that this radiator fan is no longer working efficiently and posed us to wonder for several months.

Until just this week we happened to discover because we were trying to analyze if the water pump is working. As we were contemplating my assistant happens to touch and move the radiator fan, and there it’s freewheeling. Please see the video below.

 
In normal condition, the radiator fan should not rotate freely. It should hold the fan blades quite stiff but not permanently. It should rotate both clockwise and counter-clockwise but not too loose.

Because this radiator fan is freely turning left and right when the engine runs the radiator fan blades will not rotate to the maximum speed to cool the radiator. The result would be engine overheating even in highways and smooth roads. The more the engine overheats when rev is exerted to climb uphill.

That was the case so we have to restore this failing radiator fan. Please watch how it was disassembled.

So it was disassembled and cleaned and refilled with silicon oil. It is not so complicated it is easy to disassemble and clean.

What tools and materials you need to restore this model are a 10 mm socket wrench, a Philip screwdriver, an impact driver, and a silicon oil-four pieces of the size shown in the picture.

Overheating Engine-Free Wheeling Radiator Fan-10mm socketOverheating Engine-Free Wheeling Radiator Fan-Impact drive

Overheating Engine-Free Wheeling Radiator Fan-Philip Screw Driver

Overheating Engine-Free Wheeling Radiator Fan-Silicon oil

 
As you see it in the video the fan blades are no longer freewheeling.  The silicon oil holds it but not so firmly and not too loose so that when the engine runs the cooling fan rotates.

Why is the Cooling Fan Not Fixated?

The purpose of that design is to give flexibility to the fan blades so that when something hard is accidentally inserted when the engine is running it will not be forcibly broken.

As the hard object is still there and the engine continues to run the fan blades will stop without being broken and you will have the time to remove that hard object.

No engine breakage, no cooling fan breakage too and the journey continue.

If you are sure your cooling fan cannot be rebuilt go to the alternative ones. Have them here.

Overheating Engine-Freewheeling Radiator Fan-Car on a journey

3

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes

Have you experienced along your way that your brake has made you so nervous?

Your brake pedal was so hard to press and yet your brake doesn’t grip the brake disk and your vehicle continues to advance.

Before anyone starts the journey at least he must have inspected the brake system, meaning the brake fluid level, the brake pads by testing how it grips the brake disks a day before the travel and I usually do this.

But one day I got so nervous that the brakes were not working normally. I assured myself that everything was fine because brake fluid was full, no brake fluid leaks, brake disks were fine. I went on to the whole journey with a very cautious driving thinking of what has been causing the problem.

Thankfully I got home safely. The following day I tried to look into the problem without any knowledge of how a power brake works.  I know what a power brake vacuum booster is but I don’t understand why it is connected to the alternator.

As I look into the tube connected to the power brake booster and onto the alternator I noticed a certain part that joined the two, and it is this small thing below called check valve.

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes -Check Valve

Check Valve

   

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-power booster vacuum

This is the power brake vacuum booster wherein the host in the image below is attached.

   

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-vacuum tube or hose

This is the power brake vacuum booster hose connected to the alternator.

   

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-alternator

This is the alternator that charges the battery when the engine is running.

 

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-Check Valve

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-illustration This power brake check valve connects the power booster and alternator through a hose. In between the hoses, this check valve is inserted.

On the images above the check valve is near the power booster but in my car, it is near the alternator. I noticed that this thing has been over the exhaust manifold and it was melted so it cannot function normally.

Stiff Brake Pedal Causes-Melted check valve

 

  The check valve used here in this car model is simple, it looks not like a booster check valve.  You can find different images and see what is used in your car because there are a lot. Check it here.

That made everything about brake system problematic which anyone cannot immediately determine. 
It’s good I accidentally noticed it and I learned a lot and that learning is worth-sharing.
   

 

 

 

 

 

4

You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting

At first, I noticed the first gear is so stiff to engage but I ignored it for quite a long time.  Then comes the next the fourth gear became so obvious. Then after how many weeks the shifting is so abnormal that engaging the first gear goes to the third gear and from first gear to the second gear it shifts to the fourth gear. The position is normal and you feel it engages until when you press the acceleration that you will notice it’s not on the desired gear to engage with. I’m so sad about this thing because I was thinking that there will be no other way to fix the problem rather than to overhaul the transmission and that is quite a hard task and a lot of money for the expenses of a mechanic and the parts to be replaced. So I called on the mechanic that I will be seeing him for consultation.  He, however, is in the province for a vacation and they will be coming back home that week.  So for the meantime, I was curious to see what I can do out on the issue at hand. By removing the shift booth, I inspected the shifting handle, and I saw all the screws are all in place.  Nevertheless, I removed the screws to see what may be defective of the shifting handle. I saw the perforations and I thought I found the problem to be addressed, it’s the shifting handle.
 
Two Things to Fix on this Issue The shift handle and the shift handle tip bushing. Please refer to the image below. You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-Defective Shifting Handle You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-Perforated Shifting Handle Bushing   I brought that thing to the auto supply center to buy for a new one. But the salesman said the shifting handle is not the problem.  It’s not even the obvious perforations on it, instead, he brought out a plastic to be placed over the tip of the shifting handle and that will resolve everything.
You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-Shifting Handle Bushing
You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-Shifting Handle Bushing
  Shift Handle Bushing           So I was so happy to know that the salesman is knowledgeable.  I do not need to replace the shifting handle I do not need a mechanic to overhaul the transmission to see the mechanical defects inside the shifting system.  I only need a small plastic, in other words, the shifting handle tip bushing which is just worth 40 pesos in our currency and I can drive again my vehicle normally.
You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-with Shifting Handle Bushing

Shift Handle

Before I can see my friend mechanic I consulted another mechanic and he said that the shifting handle should be replaced.  Who is more knowledgeable, the mechanic or the salesman? If I was not curious enough to work and to discover what is really the cause of the problem, surely, I would not be saved from a thousand pesos for a mechanical fee and for unnecessary part replacement. However, I took the initiative and took the thing to the Machine Shop for restoration. If I decided to buy a new shifting handle it would cost from three to four thousand pesos and that is too much for me. In the Machine Shop, almost everything has a solution.  They know what to do and they will tell you if they cannot restore a thing. For the restoration of the shift handle, it cost me three hundred pesos only. You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-Restored Shifting Handle You Need Not Overhaul Transmission-Problematic Shifting-New Shifting Handle Bushing Sometimes we need the guts to learn and be free from the time and budget burdens. However, if you have replaced that bushing and it will not stay long and be perforated again it will lead you to examine other related matters. What idea can you share with our readers?  Please don’t hesitate to discuss it here, your experience might be a great help to others.
8

Clutch Master Cylinder Replacement

This is the repair kit that contains the seals in restoring your clutch master cylinder. For a year I replaced the seals twice and on the third time, I cannot ignore it.  Maybe it’s time to replace the clutch master cylinder, the whole thing. Clutch Master Assembly Replacement-Repair KitThere will always come a time that even you want to save parts of your car and opt for repair kits but it’s inevitable to replace the whole thing. Just like this clutch master cylinder, I have thrice changed the seal but it did not take long and it leaked again. Sometimes the leak is indeterminable or unnoticeable and the only indication that its leaking is when you see the fluid is under the indicator level. Clutch Master Assembly Replacement-Clutch Master Assembly Maybe there is something inside that when pressed it hurts the rubber seal forcing to destroy against the pressure. It’s a little bit complicated to understand how it happens but it’s a fact seal are being perforated and it gives way to fluid leak. You will see this in the video below.
 
My patience in determining what causes the problem has reached its limit and the best way to solve the lurking problem is to replace the whole assembly and that is what I deed.  Clutch Master Assembly Replacement-Clutch Master Assembly Replaced This time I can travel putting aside my thoughts on the same thing, leaking clutch master cylinder. If something noticeable problem related to shifting when the clutch master cylinder is fine it will be from other parts of the system and should be diagnosed as early as possible to be safe along your way and travel without delay. Thank you for reading this short story of my experience and I hope I have shared with you valuable thing that can help you get rid of the same dilemma.  
0

Clutch Disk-Use and Function

This is a clutch disk of Toyota L engine. It is not noticeable that this has already a defect upon driving but since the engine was overhauled and is obviously thin it should be replaced to minimize time and work.

Clutch Disk-Use and Function-Replaced Clutch Disk side A

Clutch Disk-Use and Function-Replaced Clutch Disk side B

1. Components of the Clutch Disk

  • the hub

 

  • the cover plate

  • the rivet

  • the friction surface

  • the spring

 

 

Clutch Disk-Use and Function-New Clutch Disk

2.Functions of the Clutch Disk

The clutch disk transmits power from the engine to the transmission through the hub wherein the gearbox shaft is inserted.

 

 

2

Overhauling Gasket Package Not All Fitted

The producer company may have made a mistake in packaging the materials for Toyota L series which may have identical gaskets but not exactly the same, or its really the one but they made a mistake in the measurement and so produced a not fitted one.

I am referring to the head cover gasket referred to as valve gasket for Toyota L upon knowing that the mechanic had a difficulty in placing the gasket during the assembly of the engine. Because it is in the package so he believes it must be the right one that fits.

Until after a week of test drive that I noticed when we opened it for timing adjustment and to check the valve gaps. It was really stretched and it shows that it is not a normal fitting.

Because the alignment of the gasket is somewhat tilted I have to find for something that is better. Because there was no available head cover gasket for Toyota L I bought the one for Toyota 2L head cover gasket and it fits. The video below will prove the anomaly about the case.

The video above shows the fact that not all in the package of Toyota L overhauling gasket are fitted. Even if you reverse the placement it’s really too far to fit.

 

 

This video shows the exact gasket that is bought from Toyota 2L head cover gasket.

I wonder why the company causes confusion to Toyota L series users and customers by having different series with the same parts. The engine is Toyota L and you have to look for Toyota L parts and accessories. It is not bad if you can find parts exactly the same in Toyota 2L but when you are given a package with any of the parts unfit that makes it considerably defective and the producer company has to replace it for free.

 

Reminder and Warning
Be sure to inspect all overhauling gasket package before you use it one by one. The only way to assure that you have all the gaskets fit is to take with you to the auto supply center all the samples to be replaced.
This is to avoid extra ordinary expenses in buying another part you needed just because some of what is in the package is unfit.

It is also saving time and effort in doing repairs to your car or vehicle.

Exhaust and Intake Valves Installation-Toyota L Engine Guide

It’s enlightening to know how to do it if you have enough guide to follow.  It will not waste your time and you can avoid mistakes and control or lessen expenses.

In the engine valves installation, there are hints that let you realize that every valve is not to be inserted in any valve guide.

Engine Valves Installation-My Dream Wheels-Toyota L Intake ValveEngine Valves Installation-My Dream Wheels-Toyota L Exhaust Valve

 

 

 

 

 

 

On the Toyota L engine, valves are arranged from 0 to 3 marks. It is found on the flat surface of the valves. If you cannot find it there examine the whole valve to be sure that nothing will be interchanged rather they are in the proper places.

The arrangement should start from cylinder one which is the nearest to the front of the engine. If that is the case cylinder one receives exhaust and intake valves with no marks and the other cylinders receive the valves with their own marks from 1 to 3 respectively.

 

 

 

4

The How Oil Change

The How Oil Change is a guide on How to Change an Engine Oil.

Do You Do it Yourself?

If you have the tools do it by yourself. However, if you don’t have it’s much better to bring your car to the refilling station with change oil services.

 

What are the Tools you should have in changing engine oil?

1. A garage with level ground

You need a level ground to measure the engine. Correct measurement of engine oil is not underfilled and is not overfilled. You will not be able to have the correct measurement when the vehicle is not on level ground.

2. Air compressor

Air compressor helps you to bring out oil from the different parts of the engine. When changing the oil the old one must be completely removed through the air that lows them out.

3. The skill to do it

If this is your first time to do it yourself changing engine oil, you must have witnessed how they did it during the previous one or you may have read this guide on the internet. It’s not so complicated task and it’s easy to administer.

 

 

How to Change Engine Oil-engine oil

 

The standard for most of the cars is to change the oil every 5,000 kilometers or three months, whichever comes first or as often as possible depending on your driving habits and the road conditions.

Have it drained only just after a hard drive, at least 15 kilometers.  When the oil is hot and thin, sludge will not settle and harden at the bottom of the oil pan.  Or if you leave the car at a service station for a change later in the day, the cold sludge won’t flow out.

For more detailed reading, please read the Facts About Motor Oil.

 

 

16

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly

The piston, piston rings, oil rings, and connecting rods are parts that should be installed and connected to each other before it will be inserted into the block.

In installing or assembling these parts be sure to wet it with oil. The purpose is that on the first crank of the engine the engine oil is not yet distributed to the engine parts.  At least before the oil reaches all the moving parts there is lubrication provided so it will not immediately get hot.


Here are the parts
:

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Toyota L PistonThe piston

 

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Toyota L Piston RingsThe piston rings and oil ring

 

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Toyota L Piston PinsThe piston pins

 

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Toyota L Connecting RodThe connecting rod

 

Tools to use in assembling the parts

There is only two that you needed.  It is the snap ring pliers that you use in placing the rings and the piston ring installer pliers.

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Snap Ring Plies

Piston-Piston Rings-Connecting Rods Installation and Assembly-Piston Ring Installer Pliers

 

 

 

Watch the video on how all the parts are placed.

 

It is such important to be careful enough in placing all the parts.  Remember the piston has marks and that is according to arrangements when inserted in the cylinders.  Observe the dots on the images below.

 

Piston 1 with no mark

 

Piston 2 with one dot

 

Piston 3 with two dots

 

Piston 4 with 3 dots

 

Not only the piston has marks, but the connecting rod also has.  If you are keen on observing the marks such as dots you will never be mistaken to pair the right piston with the right connecting rod. And of course, you will not also be mistaken in the insertion of right pistons on the right cylinders of the block.

Cylinder 1 must be the nearest in the front of the engine.  It is the nearest to the camshaft timing gear and cylinder 4 must be the nearest to the transmission.

 

With that hints to bear in mind, you won’t waste time disassembling the engine when you come to your senses that you have not been conscious enough to observe marks provided by the manufacturers as the guide in assembling after doing an overhaul.

If you have followed the guide you will save time and possibly save resources to be incurred through errors.

You can find additional helpful information on this website page.

Thank you again and I hope I have helped you in some way.  If you have any question, comments, and observations please feel free to leave it in the comment box and I’ll be willing to get back and answer you as soon as I read your message.

 

6

Diesel Fuel Shut off Valve Functions-Issues

This fuel shutoff valve is a part of the injection pump that functions as the shutoff of fuel and engine.  It is operated by a current from the battery through the ignition switch.

When the ignition switch is on and current goes to this shutter it opens and fuel will flow to the injection pump that supplies the nozzles spraying fuel to the combustion chambers. When the ignition switch is off this valve will close and no fuel will flow to the injection pump.

How Diesel Fuel Shut off Valve Functions-Issues-shut off valveHow Diesel Fuel Shut off Valve Functions-Issues-shut off valve

How do you know this?

I would like to share with you our experience in the Toyota L engine. We have just overhauled it, the radiator was overhauled too, and the injection pump calibrated.  Everything should have been fine as expected.  The engine was cranked and it started smoothly, the engine noise is just right, the thick white smoke is gone and is about to be on a road test.

But as the engine is warmed up it suddenly stalled, no matter how you crank it in order to start it didn’t. Because it’s newly overhauled maybe the fuel has not yet fully saturated the injection pump and air maybe inside. The remedy is to loosen the nozzles so that air may be blown out.

This process if the air had been totally out from the injection pump fuel should follow to come out of the nozzles. If there are no bubbles coming out it’s time to tighten it.  Loosening the nozzles to test if there is fuel in it should be done one after the other.

However, this time there was no air coming out and there was no fuel too.  So how would the engine start if there is no fuel supplied by the nozzles? It will not. It’s good the fuel hose is transparent and obviously, the fuel is still sufficiently available from the tank.

The next step is to check if there is a current going to the fuel shutoff valve.  So we checked it and there was no current.  Upon examination, it was the wiring connected to the shutoff valve that has been cut off inside, however, it was not obvious until we stretched it out and it was only connected temporarily through the insulation of the wiring.

When the connection was restored the engine was cranked and it started until it was tested on the road and until this time of writing the engine did not stall.